fedora

Are the Irish Particularly Flamboyant?

FlanboyantGreenLocation: Frisland [1]

That Wilde-ish cape thingummy yesterday put us right in the way of this rather too much suit at Bravura, but while the ensemble may be a bit don’t-you-know — and likely to give Jeeves the vapors — at 299 leaves of cabbage with multiple combination options, it seemed unwise to resist its flamboyant charms. As period costume, it is, of course, imperfect, but we are appreciating the decently wide and peaked lapel, if not the button placements.

Would our Bertie don this raiment while in Ireland? Given his relative anonymity in Éire, perhaps so. Especially if he sneaks over without his man, don’t you know.

FlamboyantBlue[2]

As we noted, this suiting comes with several options for colors not just in the suit, itself, but for the waistcoat, shirt, tie and even awkward buttons.

FlamboyantBrown[3]

 

Suggested

Suit ~ Bravura, formal jacket and pants w/HUD (L$299)

Shoes [1] ~ Sebastian in mustard

Boots [2, 3]~  Hoorenbeek, Ray Ray

Hat [1, 2] ~ JfL, asymmetrical fedora in olive

Hat [3] ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, brown

Dressed for L$724, L$1048 & L$1097, respectively

 

A Wilde Sort of Moment

wildeLocation: Dandelion

We are planning an excursion to Ireland for later in the year, and began to feel just a titch Wilde. Our gentleman’s personal gentleman does not fully approve, Mr. Wilde having been noted for a flamboyant manner of dress that he tries to steer our Bertie away from. Well, never mind that. Mr. Wooster would have this cape, valets be damned.

Suggested

Cape ~ Bravura, houndstooth cloak in gold/black

Hat ~ JfL, asymmetrical fedora in olive

Suiting ~ Deadwool, the Dandy in green, jacket and pants sold separately

Boots ~ Hoorenbeek, Ray Ray

Dressed for L$1420

Our Yellowest Shoes

SebastianFullLocation: L’Arc-en-Ciel, Winterfall

“Jeeves,” I said.

“Sir?” said Jeeves. He had been clearing away the breakfast things, but at the sound of the young master’s voice cheesed it courteously.

“You were absolutely right about the weather. It is a juicy morning.”

“Decidedly, sir.”

“Spring and all that.”

“Yes, sir.”

“In the spring, Jeeves, a livelier iris gleams upon the burnished dove.”

“So I have been informed, sir.”

“Right ho! Then bring me my whangee, my yellowest shoes, and the old green Homburg. I’m going into the Park to do pastoral dances.”

It’s a bit early for pastoral dances in the park, unless one has been where we have been lately. Thoughts of spring intrude in situ, while much of the northern hemisphere is still shoveling snow. But, there we are. 

We’ve often wondered about this “yellow shoe” business that Mr. Wooster refers to in this passage. Was it really a true and unapologetic yellow, or was it what might be termed ‘tan’? A lighter shade of tan that approximates a pale brown that can be read as ‘yellow’, but still not blatantly yellow, if you know what we mean. We’re having a difficult time finding period illustrations or samples of truly yellow shoes, so have to assume that by “yellow,” our Bertie might mean something more like the following:

florsheim20s

1356043283_IMPERIAL_-_Cola_Tan_Polished_Calf_Leather_Mens_Brogue_Shoe

yellowtanshoe

shoesSlider_20

We also imagine these shoes in a perforated spectator style, a fashion that can be found in particularly dandy samples of spring/summer shoes for men in the 1920s and ‘30s. Unlike perforated broguing, these shoes would have had ventilation holes punched clear through a single layer of leather.

Sebastian1[1] The Sebastian shoe in “mustard” with perforated broguing. 

But in the interest of considering the other “yellow” possibilities, here are some additional options:

L&BFull[2] Our favorite brogued Oxford standby from Lapoint & Bastchild in the “cream” color option, which can read as yellow if one squints in the right light…

L&B1…but mostly reads as cream.

HaysurizaFull[3] The best option we’ve found for approximating what we’ve found in the period illustrations, from Haysuriza.

Haysuriza1

Whangee, by the way, is a bamboo grass with woody stems used to make things like canes, umbrella handles, handbag handles, cigarette holders. etc. We do not absolutely know what the “whangee” referred to above might be, but given that canes from whangee are commonly referred to as “whangees,” we’ll make a reasonable guess that Bertie is stepping out with a cane, rather than an umbrella on such a fine spring day. Alas, while there are canes in world, as have not discovered a whangee, specifically. 

chaplintrampMr. Chaplin with his crook-handled whangee, My Love of Old Hollywood

As for a green Homburg, we’d love one, although it might not be the best option for this particular suit. Our brown Homburg would be suitable, but we opted for the jauntier, perhaps a tad flashy, slouched fedora.

Suggested

Shoes [1] ~ Sebastian in mustard

Shoes [2] ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Shoes [3] ~ Haysuriza, Lace & Cap Consul in tan

Suit ~ FATEwear, Norton in “claypit”

Shirt & Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt, with print tie HUD added

Hat ~ Elysium Frankie boy hat, acquired through a past MenStuff Hunt, 

Dressed for [1] L$1915, [2] L$2139, [3] L$1900

Resources Consulted

“Jeeves in the Springtime”

Vintage Shoe Addict

Holly Martins

HollyMartins2Effecting Holly Martins, The Third Man

We have not felt any particular compulsion to get involved with blog challenge thingummies, but this one was a little hard to resist. Slebrity blogger, Strawberry Singh issued a “Monday Meme” challenge, apparently an ongoing thing at her site, to come up with a post dressing one’s avatar as a favorite film character. Mine would hands down be Holly Martins as played by Joseph Cotten in the 1949 British film noir classic, The Third Man. This film is considered one of the best films ever made, and tops the United Kingdom’s all-time best films list. We have determined that someone should build a Third Man Vienna sim. In fact, wouldn’t it be jolly if the top 100 films of all time had their own in world location builds? I mean to say, what a spiffing idea, what?

holly martinsJoseph Cotten as Holly Martins and Trevor Howard as Major Calloway meet at the grave of Harry Lyme — but it’s actually the grave of hospital orderly, Josef Haben

Martins is this bumbling American, much out of his element, a writer of Western-themed pulp fiction with a tenacious desire for justice. As far a fictional characters go, he’s almost as irresistible as Mr. Wooster, himself.

HollyMartins1

HollyMartins3

Location: Babbage Cemetery

Suggested

Coat ~ Sharp, “duster” in grey

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, black, edited to tilt back and to the side as worn by Mr. Cotten in many scenes of the film.

Shirt ~ Kauna XIV in white

Tie ~ Kauna XIV, Gryffindor stripe (free in store)

Waistcoat ~ Kauna XIV “Tanktop” in plain rust

Trousers ~ Bastard, casual baggys in steel

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Dressed for L$1504

Thoughts on Casual Wear

TweedyLocation: Frisland

We’ve come to the conclusion today that perhaps the most challenging part of dressing the part is when we wish to dress down. Gentlemen of the early 20th century would wear some variation of the lounge suit on any and all occasions, on any and all days of the week. That said, sportswear came into its own in the interwar period. A man of Mr. Wooster’s class would have his golfing plus fours worn with a jumper and jaunty tam-o-shanter hat; his tennis whites; his cricket whites; his hiking, fishing and shooting kits.

But even if not a particularly sporty chap, a fellow would certainly don on a lazy Saturday spent at home, especially in the country, a comfortable jumper over his shirt and tie, and a relaxed pair of trousers in flannel or tweed, perhaps a gabardine or in the summer, a linen or linen blend. If of the younger, more adventuresome set, he might even wear a pair of Oxford bags, which came onto the scene among the more rebellious students at said school in 1924. Wooster, an Oxford man himself, might consider them, but at the cost of his valet staging a major rebellion of his own. Still, if we found them in world, we’d give them a spin around the flat.

bagsI mean to say, wow!

SL has some reasonable, if imperfect, suiting options and some really rather good evening wear, but casual ensembles appropriate to the era are largely up to the individual to piece together as well as he can. This has its positive aspects, if one enjoys the challenge and exercise of creative juices, but it can also be frustrating. Things don’t always work together so well in world. Pieces get all wobbly when one tries to pile them on top of other pieces. 

tweedy2

We built this look today around the desire to make some kind of use of a free hunt item coat, because, by gad, when we acquire a likely item for free, we want to make decent use of it. We’ve found, however, that we can easily lay out more green cabbage trying to make a free item work than we would purchasing a ready-to-wear ensemble. As our dear old mater used to say, there is no such thing as a free puppy.

Suggested

Shirt ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Knit vest ~ Kauna XIV in plain rust

Trousers ~ Bastard, herringbone tweed casual baggy

Coat ~ Tamiron Forge, Trench Coat in brown, past Men Only Hunt item

Hat ~ Quedra HD Design, free brown mesh fedora, tinted as desired

Shoes ~ Gabriel, wingtip in brown, past group gift

Hair ~ Action James (includes color change HUD and a plethora of color options)

Dress for L$1526, inclusive of hair. It should be noted that one gets a LOT of shirting and tie options for the price with the Hoorenbeek shirts.

Resources Consulted

Fashion Encyclopedia – Modern World 1919-1929

The Trench Coat

trench1Location: 1920s Berlin Project

While most fashionable men’s coats in the 1920s were unbelted, double-breasted varieties and generally wool — occasionally fur, if the gentleman were a little on the vulgar side, if rolling in plenty of cabbage — the trench was decidedly a thing. The origins are a little obscure, but it was a standard military style of overcoat by the Boer War, and ubiquitous by the Great War. Pre-Great War tenches were longer, well past the knees, but the hem line moved north on some models during the War, possibly for very practical reasons (less of one’s kit to drag through the mud, don’t you know). We’ve never seen an old photograph or illustration of one quite this short, but this was a free hunt item, and for free, who’s going to complain? It’s close enough for a galloping horse, as they say in theater circles.

About the trousers — we have a bit of a problem here; the fit on these trousers is too narrow and there is no discernible crease. Men’s trousers in that era were fairly wide and the sharp, crisp crease was an important feature of the overall silhouette. It’s too bad, but just as it’s difficult to come by a really good period collar in SL, it’s difficult to get a good crease on one’s trousers. These look like they fell into the hands of Alistair Bingham-Reeves’ valet, an excrescence famous for pressing his employer’s trousers sideways.

Mr. Wooster has a decidedly Trevor Howard-in-The Third Man air about him here, and old Trevor would have only been a boy of about 10 or 11 years old in the mid-1920s. He didn’t come into his recognizable adult own with this look until some years later. The Third Man, as a matter of fact, came out in 1949.

third_callowayTrevor Howard still from The Third Man, 1949, moonboog.com

While a bit of an anachronism in some of the details, this is still a nice look and won’t get you tossed out on your ear from any interwar sim. Mr. Wooster, wandering the snowy streets of Berlin tonight, fits in just fine.

trenchscene1

trenchscene2

 

Suggested

Trenchcoat ~ Jana’s For Men, acquired at a past Menstuff Hunt for free

Trousers ~ Munereia, Carbeseu, former group gift

Shirt ~ Kauna XIV in white

Tie ~ Kauna Tuxedo XIV accessories: Hogwarts collection, Hufflepuff, free at the store

Hat ~ Elysium Frankie boy hat, acquired at a past Menstuff Hunt for free

Shoes ~ Coco, Oxford two-tone, past group gift

Mustache ~ Fe Style, 6ED in brown

Cigarette ~ Sinister Designs, cigarette sculpty v.3, from SL marketplace

Skin ~ Hermony, Leon

Eyes ~ Aveline mesh eyes in hazel, L$0@SL Marketplace 

Dressed for L$369

Resources Consulted

Gentleman’s Gazette — Trench Coat Guide

Jeeves and the Hard-Boiled Egg

Love to Know — Men’s Fashion in the 1920s

 

Little brown suit

brownsuitLocation: Bryn Oh

In theory, dressing men in SL in early 20th century period appropriate clothing shouldn’t be that difficult. With a couple of suits and a handful of separates, most chappies would be well content. Alas, SL suits tend to be cut along rather close lines, as if just a little too tight. Dress shirt collars, the bane of an SL boulevardier’s existence, are too loose and too low, even by real life standards.

By way of illustration, note here Exhibit A. Mr. Wooster will wear this, because it isn’t shabby looking, but the cut of the vest is too tight, the jacket too short and close to the bone and sinew, the shirt collar looking for all the world like a lady’s jewel neckline. This suit is better suited to the 1960s, come to think of it, but it will do in a pinch for earlier eras.

But what he wouldn’t give for a Homburg to bung up on top of all this…

Suggestions

Suit ~ E.P.I.A. formal business suit, brown with tie and shirt color options

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, brown

Hair ~ Dura-Boys 31 in Irish Coffee

Skin ~ Hermony, Leon

Eyes ~ Aveline mesh eyes in hazel, L$0@SL Marketplace 

Dressed for L$1568

 

The chalk or pinstriped suit

Pinstripe1

Location: The North Pole

The ‘classic’ double breasted pinstriped suit with elevated waistline and short lapels that most readers may be thinking of didn’t really come into being until the 1930s. Mr. Wooster would have been decidedly ahead of the curve if wearing it in the ’20s, and his man servant did not encourage such avant garde sartorial choices. That said, for the purposes of larking about in the virtual first half of the 20th century, one can get away with the look in just about any sort of representation of post-World War I styling. Hard core virtual reenactors are not as particular as one might presume; they understand the limited choices available. A more pronounced peaked lapel on this jacket would have been welcomed, but there we are.

The gentlemen’s suitings pictured here include a single breasted jacket and waistcoat in a fabric that suggests more of a chalk stripe than a pinstripe. The difference? A pinstripe is a relatively faint line of thread with a pin-prick dot effect. A chalk stripe tends to be thicker and has more of a twisted rope effect. Chalk stripes are always more pronounced than pinstripes.

A word on collars — it’s a challenge to find a good, high fit suitable to the era in Second Life clothing, and that’s something one simply needs to come to terms with for one’s general peace of mind.

A word on shoes — the wingtip brogue is appropriate for this sort of urban day wear, even if the two-tone version may be a titch garish. Under no circumstances should you wear this shoe with your evening wear.

A word on hats — they are problematic in Second Life, unless of the sort with hat and hair built together. The best option is to wear hair that can be copied and modify. Keep one version for the unhatted head, and alter the copy with the hat on, eliminating all the bits and lumps of hair that stick out through the hat. Appropriate hat styles can be a problem, too. Approximations of fedoras, such as this one by Couture Chapeau, are easy enough to find, if sometimes a bit exaggerated, but gent’s hats in the first half of the 20th century came in a lot more varieties than that. Mr. Wooster is searching far and wide for a decent Homburg. Still, a fedora is a suitable option for this look. But by all means, you must have hats. Men wore hats all the time well up until the mid-1960s, really.

Suggested

Suit ~ Just Because navy pinstripe jacket, vest and trousers (top and trousers sold separately)

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora

Hair ~ Dura-Boys 31 in Irish Coffee

Skin ~ Hermony, Leon

Eyes ~ Aveline mesh eyes in hazel, L$0@SL Marketplace 

Dressed for L$1473

Sources Consulted

The Gentleman’s Gazette