More On Overcoats

Deadwool1Deadwool, “duster” coat, brown, L$399

We continue with our sampling of overcoat options. Again, the use of the term “duster” is epidemic. For example, Exhibit A above; this “duster” has the patch pockets of an Ulster, but is otherwise cut more along the lines of a covert coat, if a little too long. The fabric appears to be an approximation of a diagonal twill weave, a not uncommon fabric for overcoats of the era. The collar is reminiscent of a Balmacaan, although with lapels, but the set-in sleeves are more covert or Chesterfield…

One begins to get a sense of how deceptively simple men’s clothing appears to be. Men’s clothing, especially ‘classic’ clothing, is the perfect subject for the detail-oriented obsessive. There exists so much particularity to what’s otherwise a pretty limited formula. Looked at in this light, one can almost comprehend why so many virtual makers just slap the “duster” label on all unbelted coats that fall below the knee, “trench” on all belted coats, and “pea” on all above-knee double breasted coats. It may simplify things, but as we were discussing with someone in an exchange just the other day, one would think that someone who devotes substantial time to making virtual clothing would, in real life, be something of a style aficionado who not only can tell the difference between a duster and an Ulster, an Ulster and a Chesterfield, a Chesterfield and a Balmacaan, etc., but who would be somewhat passionate about getting every last detail correct. In other words, it would seem to us that the making of virtual clothing would be the ideal outlet for the detail-oriented obsessive.

All that aside, we should note that this coat is textured to appear rather worn, and would be a good option for a character who is perhaps less pecuniarily sound or who is less particular about his appearance than our Mr. Wooster tends to be.

BunezaBunenza, Old Days in Chicago, brown, L$5

For the price — practically free — Exhibit B above is not a bad option for a “trench” style coat — and here they do get it pretty much right, what with the double breast, the epaulettes at the shoulder, the belt, sleeve straps and general feel. It must be noted, however, that a true trench is cotton gabardine, not the heavy wool suggested here, and more commonly has a raglan sleeve, rather than set-in sleeve, but that is a matter of personal preference. We do wonder, too, at the common virtual feature of the belt tied out of the way at the back.

sharpSharp, mesh “duster” in grey, L$298

Exhibit C appears to be made from a common mesh template as described in our last post. Whatever its amalgam of characteristics, it is not a duster. We are just saying.

Deadwool2Deadwool, Corto in black, L$490

We are frankly unsure what to call this style of coat. It has characteristics of a British warm and is textured to appear to be in a diagonal twill weave. It is a somewhat unconventional coat, so not for absolute sticklers, period-wise. The same can be said for the following:

fatewearblueFATEwear, Parker in lagoon, L$350

We appreciate this coat, with its fitted, single breasted Chesterfield feel, but the asymmetry of the closure and collar make this decidedly unconventional.

Suggested

Shirt ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Waistcoat ~ Kauna XIV in Plaid Thistle

Trousers ~ Bastard, casual baggys in herringbone tweed and steel

Hat ~ Quedra HD Design, free brown mesh fedora, tinted as desired

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, black

Hat ~ Hyacinthe Luynes, Grey Homburg Hat @ SL Marketplace

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Boots ~ Hoorenbeek, Ray Ray

Resources consulted

Die, Workwear — The Nearly Forgotten Balmacaan

Gentleman’s Gazette — The Covert Coat

Gentleman’s Gazette — Diagonal Twill Weave in Suits and Overcoats

Gentleman’s Gazette — Winter Fashions of the Quarter: Apparel Arts 1932

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