Month: January 2015

Not of Bertie’s Beautiful World, But Keeping It Real

OleEtzelLocation: 1920s Berlin Project. Avatar & Photographer: Ole Etzel

We are most appreciative of not feeling pressured to pull together a ‘look’ today. Many thanks to Ole Etzel, filmmaker (machinima, that would be) and Berlin institution, for sharing with us his own ‘look’.

There is much discussion in world about everyone wanting to be oofy, that is, posh. Well, yes, we should hardly find it surprising that when indulging in a fantasy, one might wish for accoutrements to which one might not otherwise have access. Bespoke suits, beaded gowns, and all that, what? But if engaging in a little virtual historical reenactment, one must acknowledge that not everyone was a Bright Young Thing or otherwise well into the cabbage. Most people were struggling at least a bit in the interwar period, and some were downright destitute. Some were, dare we say it, older than 30. We say huzzah for those souls who take up the mantle of depicting that reality.

We find it interesting that this ensemble pulled together by Herrn Etzel is more perfect in its period detailing than many of those found for a wealthy Mayfair butterfly of the era. We had earlier commented that pulling together a working (or poor or modest middle class) man’s look may be a bit challenging, but perhaps not as much as we thought.

Suggested

Suit – Loki Mesh @ Escapades, Smart 3 Piece

Cane ~ Talevin’s Designs

Boots ~ Deco, mesh camp boots

Hat ~ Sculpties Up In Here, handknit flaphat

Scarf ~ Loki Mesh @ Escapades, Simple Scarf

Hair ~ Deco, Shifty in ash

Skin ~ KTG, Old Man

Dressed for L$1210, inclusive of skin 

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Peaky Blinders

pinky1Location: Neva Sky Villi

In the interest of appealing to a more economically modest set of characters, Mr. Wooster is today modeling a Peaky Blinders sort of aesthetic. We have not actually seen this television show, but understand that it does for the English underground economy set what Boardwalk Empire did for the American. This program, in contrast, is set in the English Midlands — the Small Heath section of Birmingham, to be exact — in the late teens and early 1920s, and is appropriately grey and gritty and coal-smokey in a way that Boardwalk generally was not. That is what we surmise from stills of the production, in any case. 

peaky-blinders-castPeaky Blinders cast, penny collars, cropped trousers, sturdy boots and all

An article in the Telegraph described in some detail the post-first World War style that marked the era, class and, consequently, the costuming on the program. There are few perfect solutions in world to affecting this look, naturally. The Deadwool penny collar shirt is hindered in its flexibility by not coming in a version that can be easily worn under jackets. The shirting poking out through the jacket fabric on the arms isn’t visible in the above photograph, only because of the way the shot is set up. How difficult would it be for the Deadwool maker to add some chest-only versions of this shirt to be worn under jackets, as Kauna and Hoorenbeek do with theirs? Surely not so very, what?

pinky2Note that the Deadwool shirt has suspenders as part of the graphic, and it is designed to go with a ‘gunslinger’ type trouser with a gun tie on the thigh. Wearing it with this trouser, our favorite at capturing an interwar aesthetic, necessitates a waistcoat. Otherwise, one is captured committing the redundancy of both suspenders and a belt. 

pinky3

Suggested

Jacket ~from the Kauna XIV suit. Tweed Twill Grey

Shirt ~ Deadwool, round collar shirt

Waistcoat ~ Kauna XIV in black

Trousers ~ Bastard, casual baggy in steel

Cap + Hair ~ Argrace Hunting “Very short” in light brown, color-change cap

Tie ~ W Bow Tie, striped fabrics @ SL Marketplace

Boots ~ Brii, casual military boots, black

Dressed for L$1924

Resources Consulted

The Telegraph — Your Winter Wardrobe, Peaky Blinders Style

Holly Martins

HollyMartins2Effecting Holly Martins, The Third Man

We have not felt any particular compulsion to get involved with blog challenge thingummies, but this one was a little hard to resist. Slebrity blogger, Strawberry Singh issued a “Monday Meme” challenge, apparently an ongoing thing at her site, to come up with a post dressing one’s avatar as a favorite film character. Mine would hands down be Holly Martins as played by Joseph Cotten in the 1949 British film noir classic, The Third Man. This film is considered one of the best films ever made, and tops the United Kingdom’s all-time best films list. We have determined that someone should build a Third Man Vienna sim. In fact, wouldn’t it be jolly if the top 100 films of all time had their own in world location builds? I mean to say, what a spiffing idea, what?

holly martinsJoseph Cotten as Holly Martins and Trevor Howard as Major Calloway meet at the grave of Harry Lyme — but it’s actually the grave of hospital orderly, Josef Haben

Martins is this bumbling American, much out of his element, a writer of Western-themed pulp fiction with a tenacious desire for justice. As far a fictional characters go, he’s almost as irresistible as Mr. Wooster, himself.

HollyMartins1

HollyMartins3

Location: Babbage Cemetery

Suggested

Coat ~ Sharp, “duster” in grey

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, black, edited to tilt back and to the side as worn by Mr. Cotten in many scenes of the film.

Shirt ~ Kauna XIV in white

Tie ~ Kauna XIV, Gryffindor stripe (free in store)

Waistcoat ~ Kauna XIV “Tanktop” in plain rust

Trousers ~ Bastard, casual baggys in steel

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Dressed for L$1504

More On Overcoats

Deadwool1Deadwool, “duster” coat, brown, L$399

We continue with our sampling of overcoat options. Again, the use of the term “duster” is epidemic. For example, Exhibit A above; this “duster” has the patch pockets of an Ulster, but is otherwise cut more along the lines of a covert coat, if a little too long. The fabric appears to be an approximation of a diagonal twill weave, a not uncommon fabric for overcoats of the era. The collar is reminiscent of a Balmacaan, although with lapels, but the set-in sleeves are more covert or Chesterfield…

One begins to get a sense of how deceptively simple men’s clothing appears to be. Men’s clothing, especially ‘classic’ clothing, is the perfect subject for the detail-oriented obsessive. There exists so much particularity to what’s otherwise a pretty limited formula. Looked at in this light, one can almost comprehend why so many virtual makers just slap the “duster” label on all unbelted coats that fall below the knee, “trench” on all belted coats, and “pea” on all above-knee double breasted coats. It may simplify things, but as we were discussing with someone in an exchange just the other day, one would think that someone who devotes substantial time to making virtual clothing would, in real life, be something of a style aficionado who not only can tell the difference between a duster and an Ulster, an Ulster and a Chesterfield, a Chesterfield and a Balmacaan, etc., but who would be somewhat passionate about getting every last detail correct. In other words, it would seem to us that the making of virtual clothing would be the ideal outlet for the detail-oriented obsessive.

All that aside, we should note that this coat is textured to appear rather worn, and would be a good option for a character who is perhaps less pecuniarily sound or who is less particular about his appearance than our Mr. Wooster tends to be.

BunezaBunenza, Old Days in Chicago, brown, L$5

For the price — practically free — Exhibit B above is not a bad option for a “trench” style coat — and here they do get it pretty much right, what with the double breast, the epaulettes at the shoulder, the belt, sleeve straps and general feel. It must be noted, however, that a true trench is cotton gabardine, not the heavy wool suggested here, and more commonly has a raglan sleeve, rather than set-in sleeve, but that is a matter of personal preference. We do wonder, too, at the common virtual feature of the belt tied out of the way at the back.

sharpSharp, mesh “duster” in grey, L$298

Exhibit C appears to be made from a common mesh template as described in our last post. Whatever its amalgam of characteristics, it is not a duster. We are just saying.

Deadwool2Deadwool, Corto in black, L$490

We are frankly unsure what to call this style of coat. It has characteristics of a British warm and is textured to appear to be in a diagonal twill weave. It is a somewhat unconventional coat, so not for absolute sticklers, period-wise. The same can be said for the following:

fatewearblueFATEwear, Parker in lagoon, L$350

We appreciate this coat, with its fitted, single breasted Chesterfield feel, but the asymmetry of the closure and collar make this decidedly unconventional.

Suggested

Shirt ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Waistcoat ~ Kauna XIV in Plaid Thistle

Trousers ~ Bastard, casual baggys in herringbone tweed and steel

Hat ~ Quedra HD Design, free brown mesh fedora, tinted as desired

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, black

Hat ~ Hyacinthe Luynes, Grey Homburg Hat @ SL Marketplace

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Boots ~ Hoorenbeek, Ray Ray

Resources consulted

Die, Workwear — The Nearly Forgotten Balmacaan

Gentleman’s Gazette — The Covert Coat

Gentleman’s Gazette — Diagonal Twill Weave in Suits and Overcoats

Gentleman’s Gazette — Winter Fashions of the Quarter: Apparel Arts 1932

Overcoats — No, They Are Not Dusters

phunkApproximating a paletot, unbuttoned — One might possibly call this a ‘twine’ or ‘English wrap’, but it has characteristics of a British warm or greatcoat. Phunk, 10th Doctor Coat, L$125

What we really felt like discussing today is yellow shoes and pastoral dances in the park. The weather has been exceptionally clement where we are, beguiling us into believing that a discussion of springtime raiment would be perfectly appropriate. It is, however, only ten days past the ides of January. Our yellowest shoes would hardly be prudent. 

We have, instead, distracted ourselves with a sampling of overcoats. The good, old Chesterfield, the Ulster, the Guards coat and the paletot — variations on the overcoat — rule the day, and many of the coats that virtual clothiers call “dusters” are essentially one or the other of the aforementioned, even if some of the detailing is off. We are not sure what the obsession with “dusters” is among virtual tailors. Or rather, we wonder at the obsession with the name. 

A true duster, made of a linen or canvas, sometimes waxed for weatherization and suitable for sitting astride a horse while encouraging bovine companions to push it on along, is all well and good, but not every coat that falls to the knee and beyond can accurately be called a “duster.”  Certainly, a true duster is not for the carefree boulevardier as he makes his rounds from Mayfair flat, to club, to the Savoy grill for a spot of lunch, back to the club for an afternoon restorative, back to the Mayfair flat to leisurely dress for dinner and so forth and do on. A motoring duster might be called for when taking the roadster down to some aunt’s country seat for a house party, but even that is a bit old fashioned. 

coats-dz-dxduster-lgDrizabone duster from Australia

Well, never mind. All those so-called “dusters” we’ve found in world are perfectly fine overcoats approximating the variety of coats a gentleman of the first half of the 20th century might wear. We should not let a common misnomer stop us in our tracks. 

We do wonder, though, at the research virtual clothes makers put into their craft. I mean to say, it doesn’t take much poking around to learn the names of basic overcoat styles. Is it assumed that consumers are wooly-headed? I mean to say, what?

lestherandfleeceThe short “trench,” but without certain trench characteristics. The black leather on a trench-style coat is generally frowned upon, because of its associations with a certain German political movement, but this was a free hunt item, so we’ll let it pass. In this particular style with the fleece collar, the associations aren’t so strong. Overhigh, past promotional hunt item.

GabrielCoatApproximation of a British warm or “greatcoat,” unbuttoned, but vented like a paletot-sac. Gabriel @ The Men’s Dept, L$300

fatewear1The back venting of a duster, yes, but the fitted silhouette of a paletot.  FATEwear, Dante leather coat, L$300

fatewear2As above, but in fabric rather than leather. FATEwear, Fergy, L$300

A word on pricing — the Phunk coat at the top of the page is created from a rigged mesh, full permissions template, meaning the designer has only individualized this with textures. This is what we surmise from a search, in any case, and explains why we essentially see this coat over and over. That is fine, of course, because reputable resellers will provide a perfectly decent coat at a very affordable price, having saved on the labor involved in cutting the pattern themselves, as it were.

A word on those boots — The two-toned, cloth-top work boot may be a bit on the working man’s side of things, but it provides a period appropriate sturdy shoe as might be worn for country walks. It also works exceptionally well if trying to effect a working class look. We are very impressed with this shoe.

bootsHoorenbeek, Ray Ray boot, L$520

Suggested

Shirt ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Waistcoat ~ Kauna XIV in Plaid Thistle

Trousers ~ Bastard, casual baggys in herringbone tweed and steel

Hat ~ Quedra HD Design, free brown mesh fedora, tinted as desired

Hat ~ Couture Chapeau “Sleuth” fedora, black

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Resources Consulted

The Gentleman’s Gazette — The British WarmOvercoat

The Gentleman’s Gazette — The Chesterfield Overcoat

The Gentleman’s Gazette — The Guards Coat

The Gentleman’s Gazette — Overcoat, Topcoat, Greatcoat: Terminology Explained

The Gentleman’s Gazette — Paletot: The Double Breasted Overcoat

The Gentleman’s Gazette — The Ulster Overcoat

Evening Wear

“Do you dress for dinner every night, Bertie?”

“Jeeves,” I said coldly. The man was still standing like a statue by the door. “How many suits of evening clothes have I?”

“We have three suits full of evening dress, sir; two dinner jackets—-“

“Three.”

“For practical purposes two only, sir. If you remember we cannot wear the third. We have also seven white waistcoats.”

“And shirts?”

“Four dozen, sir.”

“And white ties?”

“The first two shallow shelves in the chest of drawers are completely filled with our white ties, sir.”

I turned to Rocky.

“You see?”

One could write tomes about men’s evening dress. There’s one of those website thingummies devoted solely to the subject, in fact, and much of our information is gleaned from that source. A link can be found below, so we won’t bother to rewrite the whole thing. Rather, we’ll present some options from virtual clothiers that would be suitable for our interwar period evening rambles. 

The gentleman’s tuxedo, really a 20th century invention, comes in a seemingly limited range of options that wouldn’t have appeared to have changed radically over the decades. But the devil is in the details, as they say. The cuts, fingertip or shorter; the lapels, peaked or shawl; the issue of waistcoat vs. cummerbund; double breasted waistcoat or single; U-shaped waistcoat front or V; straight-bottomed waistcoat or angular (pointed or curved); black tie or white; midnight blue or black; white dinner jacket or solid black; military dress mess style jacket, lounge or reefer … Yes, we could write tomes. 

Some of these things one would be more likely to encounter in photographs and fashion illustrations of the era than others. The white mess, for example, had a moment in the sun — quite literally, as it was considered only suitable for summer or warm-weather resort wear — for a relatively brief period. Perhaps that it why it is impossible to find in world. Fashion illustrations also indicate fairly narrow ankles on trousers; you can spot a tuxedo of the 1920s quite readily by the tapered, almost peg-leg silhouette of the trouser, which may be surprising given the penchant for a wider leg trouser through the interwar period, in general. 

But, before we end up writing tomes by way of an introduction, let’s just get down to our sampling, shall we?

LYZ, Getz Men’s Evening Suit

lyztux

What we like: the U-shaped waistcoat, a rare find in world and out. The suit comes in combinations of black with one other color, but we recommend choosing the black/blue option, as midnight blue evening clothes are period appropriate. The blue is a little too vivid to be “midnight,” but there it is. We are not mad about the striped waistcoat, and would have been happier with solid black or white, and we are very unhappy, indeed, with the gap between waistcoat and trouser waist, but we are sufficiently appreciative of the rarity of the U-shaped front to recommend this option. It is also relatively affordable.

L$480

Hoorenbeek, Tailcoat Suit

Kaunatails

What we like: A white waistcoat and white tie, to say nothing of the fact the the waistcoat and trouser fully cover the shirt front. We should point out that the waistcoat coming below the bottom of the jacket is a problem, and the trouser leg is far too wide at the ankle, but there we are. White waistcoats can be and are worn with black tie in period appropriate dress, but in world it is difficult to find white waistcoats with interchangeable tie options. This ensemble with tails is for rather more formal evening occasions. We know that you’re thinking — all evening dress is “formal,” but there you would be wrong. Evening occasions at which the tuxedo or other evening dress might be worn ranged from a raucous night with the boys at the club, to a ball in season with presentations to royalty involved. One does not dress the same at the one as the other. This suit is suitable for only the most formal occasions.

L$980

Hoorenbeek, Townsend

Hoorenbeek-peaked-lapels

What we like: The nicely peaked lapel. So many lapels we see in world are essentially shawl cut, but with notches. We say one or the other, please. Either make it shawled, or give the notched collar a substantial peak. We also appreciate that the waistcoat, though not deeply enough cut in the V, does cover the waist of the trouser.

L$960

SF Design, Godfather Suit

godfathertux

What we like: The longer cut on the jacket, the waistcoat covers the top of the trouser, the black studs for buttons. The shawl lapel on the waistcoat is quite period appropriate, too, and we appreciate the color-change buttonnier included in the ensemble. There is, however, very little flexibility with this suit. None, in fact. It is all of one piece.

L$600

Kauna, Tuxedo, Classic Black

kaunatux

What we like: We like most things by Kauna, even if we have some quibbles with the overall tight cut. The quality is top drawer, however. We would wish for a suitable waistcoat option in black and white. There is a black waistcoat one could purchase and wear with this, but it looks like a daywear waistcoat and is somewhat jarring when paired with the tuxedo. Instead, one is left with the cummerbund option, and that was fairly exclusively worn in summer or as part of warm weather resort dress and/or more informal evening occasions. One would not see cummerbunds and white tie and tails at the same event.

L$896

Kauna, Tuxedo, Classic Cream

white-dinenr

What we like: The white dinner jacket option. It should be noted that one can purchase the Classic Black version, and supplement it with a separately purchased cream or white dinner jacket, rather than buying two full sets of evening dress. We should note that stark white is not something one would see in a natural fiber, wool or silk taking on a yellowish tinge over time, therefore a cream jacket is more period appropriate and considered today a mark of higher quality and refined taste over one in white. The white dinner jacket is reserved for less formal occasions, and at the time, was considered summer or resort wear.

L$896 — or the jacket on its own to supplement the classic black is L$329

Other things to consider — in period fashion illustrations, particularly from the 1930s, ’40s and ’50s, we’ve seen quite colorful options for the jacket in velvet “housecoat” or silk “smoking jacket” variations. These would have been appropriate for informal dinners at home, not for a night out on the tiles. 

Location: The Outer Garden, Calm Beach

Resources Consulted

The Black Tie Guide

Carry On, Jeeves — “The Aunt and the Sluggard”

The Polo Neck

turtleneck3[1] Location: Woodsy — O, for a lounge jacket that reaches our fingertips….

We usually associate polo necks — also known as turtlenecks — with academic types and the fashions of the 1960s and ‘70s — Michel Foucault and Steve McQueen, anyone? — but we’ve learned that Noel Coward was sporting a turtleneck as casual wear as early as the mid-1920s, and one can be spotted from time to time in gentlemen’s sportswear fashion illustrations from the 1930s. We haven’t found many of these illustrations and have yet to uncover a photograph of a young Mr. Coward in one, so we’ll have to take Wikipedia’s word on that point. We will say, though, that we have uncovered a few turtlenecked stars of the silver screen in the 1920s and early 1930s, and a smattering of even earlier photographs of athletic, young university boosters in their college turtle-necked sweaters.

GableTurtleneck1 Errol-Flynn-turtleneck1 novarroTurtle1George Hurrell portrait of Clark Gable, 1932 / Errol Flynn in the early ’30s / Ramon Novarro, Motion Picture magazine cover, 1920s

We cannot recall any mention of this sweater style in the Jeeves and Wooster canon, but given what is known about the former’s strong feelings regarding neckties, we should imagine that the latter would not be able to keep his hands on one for long, unless, perhaps, as part of rugged outdoor attire associated with winter sports and hiking up Alps. Mr. Wooster, being more inclined toward the habits of a Mayfair clubman than an rugged he-man of the outdoors, would have few such occasions for such a garment, the fashion guidance of matinee idols, aside. Still, because the odd m.i. here and there presents it as a possibility of the era, it’s worth a mention as a possibility for interwar virtual period wear for gentlemen. Certainly working men in the trades could pull it off with little comment. 

Speaking of that, we found a trouser that suggests a corduroy fabric, a textile that was quite popular among the working set in the first half of the 20th century. Our Mr. Wooster would be unlikely to sport anything in corduroy, unless involved in rugged outdoor pursuits, and we’ve already hinted at his disinclination for those. That said, in the interest of letting readers know such trousers exist, we present them here. 

We also present the reefer blazer featured earlier with the turtleneck shirting option that comes with it, paired with an appropriately casual grey flannel trouser. 

turtleneck4[2]

Suggested

Sport coat with Turtleneck [1] ~ FATEwear shirt, Ralph (blazer, seater and pocket handkerchief) 

Blazer with Turtleneck [2] ~ Hoorenbeek, Double Breasted in blue

Trousers [1] ~ Asteria MensWear, Broderick pants, brown

Trousers [2] ~ Bastard, steel casual baggy

Hat/hair [1] ~ Argrace Hunting “Very short” in light brown

Hair [2] ~ Action James (includes color change HUD and a plethora of color options)

Shoes [1] ~ Gabriel, wingtip in brown, past group gift

Shoes [2] ~ Fir & MNA, Ashford Brogue, grey and charcoal

Mustache ~ Fe Style, 6ED in brown

Cigarette [1]  ~ Sinister Designs, cigarette sculpty v.3, from SL marketplace

Dressed for L$870 & 1517, respectively

Resources Consulted

Wikipedie — Polo neck

Subtle Variations on the Casual Theme

countryhouse_edited-1[1] Location: Goatswood

We have nothing earth-shattering to offer today, but as we were messing about with this and that, here and there, we thought we might go ahead and capture a few photographs exploring just a little more country/casual attire.

We are dressed today in a muted plaid lounge jacket paired with our favorite casual, almost heather-mixture tweed trouser.  Two variations of waistcoat, shirt, tie and shoe are considered.

Let us discuss for a moment shoes. Again. A stout Oxford or derby shoe with brogued toe cap — pointed or not, two-toned or not — would have been a standard, but Mr. Wooster grows a little tired of them when worn all the time. As an alternative, he is experimenting with a rather festive saddle shoe in the second illustration. Saddle shoes started life as sporting shoes — particularly for golf — but by the 1930s were beginning to be coopted by women. Some today consider this a feminine shoe, but we’re satisfied with its inherent masculinity.

treesbase_edited-2[2] Location: Neva River

Mr. Wooster’s valet finds these shoes far too loud, alarming even, with the vivid combination of merlot and black, but Bertie is in full rebellion at the moment and will bally well wear them when and if he wants. 

Suggested

Jacket ~ Kauna XIV, Plaid Earth

Shirt [1] ~ Kauna XIV in white

Tie [1] ~ Adjunct, Classic Bow Tie, plaids collection

Shirt [2] ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie [2] ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Waistcoat [1] ~ Kauna XIV in plain rust knit

Waistcoat [2] ~ Kauna XIV in black

Trousers ~ Bastard, herringbone tweed casual baggy

Shoes [1] ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Shoes [2] ~ Lindy, Parker in black/merlot

Hat [1] ~ Quedra HD Design, free brown mesh fedora, tinted as desired

Glasses [1] ~ Body Factory, Antique Glasses, group gift

Mustache [1] ~ Fe Style, 6ED in brown

Hair [2] ~ Action James (includes color change HUD and a plethora of color options)

Dressed for L$1756 & L$2054, respectively

Resources Consulted

Vintage Dancer — Saddle Shoes Through the Decades

Jazz Age Flamboyance Considered

Flamboyant1Location: Timeless Memories [1]

We are great admirers of the goods purveyed by Deco, although they tend to be designed for a more adventuresome set, whether in terms of action or dress. This “duster” style coat (so called by the designers, but really more of a Guards coat or paletot) and ensemble, for example, is not something Mr. Wooster’s valet would stick for long at any price. Within two shakes of a duck’s tail — dare we say, perhaps even within but a single shake of said bird’s posterior plumage — this ripe item would have been spirited away to an East End consignment shop, where it no doubt would fall into the glad hands of an up and coming man of business in the underground economy. It is rather more “Nucky” Johnson, upon whom Mr. Buscemi’s character, Nucky Thompson in Boardwalk Empire is based, or even the extraordinarily flamboyant Chalky White character in same program, than Bertram Wilberforce Wooster. But if that is your ‘thing’, as they say, by all means, dash it, take it for a stroll ’round the square.

Flamboyance is something that Mr. Wooster attempts from time-to-time, never with any great success. Either he gives the juicy article of clothing a rational second thought once he catches a glimpse of himself in the mirror, or his valet compels him to see reason. If the episode of the white mess dinner jacket acquired at Cannes is anything to go by, we rather doubt this “duster” will even make it through the threshold of Mr. Wooster’s flat. The white mess dinner jacket, after all, was in comparison quite restrained. 

This reminds us — we must find a white mess dinner jacket.

Flamboyant2[2]

Suggested

Coat ~ Deco, His Peacemaker leather duster, modeled in brown [1] and red [2], waistcoat/jacket built in

Shirt ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Trousers [1] ~ Bastard, herringbone tweed casual baggy

Trousers [2] ~ Kauna XIV. Tweed Twill Grey (part of full ensemble sold together)

Hat ~ Hyacinthe Luynes, Homburg brown [1] & grey [2] @ SL Marketplace 

Shoes ~ Lapoint & Bastchild wingtip with single and two-tone options (includes HUD)

Mustache ~ Fe Style, 6ED in brown

Cigarette ~ Sinister Designs, cigarette sculpty v.3, from SL marketplace

Dressed for L$2304 & 2951, respectively

Resources Consulted

Right Ho, Jeeves

Thoughts on Casual Wear

TweedyLocation: Frisland

We’ve come to the conclusion today that perhaps the most challenging part of dressing the part is when we wish to dress down. Gentlemen of the early 20th century would wear some variation of the lounge suit on any and all occasions, on any and all days of the week. That said, sportswear came into its own in the interwar period. A man of Mr. Wooster’s class would have his golfing plus fours worn with a jumper and jaunty tam-o-shanter hat; his tennis whites; his cricket whites; his hiking, fishing and shooting kits.

But even if not a particularly sporty chap, a fellow would certainly don on a lazy Saturday spent at home, especially in the country, a comfortable jumper over his shirt and tie, and a relaxed pair of trousers in flannel or tweed, perhaps a gabardine or in the summer, a linen or linen blend. If of the younger, more adventuresome set, he might even wear a pair of Oxford bags, which came onto the scene among the more rebellious students at said school in 1924. Wooster, an Oxford man himself, might consider them, but at the cost of his valet staging a major rebellion of his own. Still, if we found them in world, we’d give them a spin around the flat.

bagsI mean to say, wow!

SL has some reasonable, if imperfect, suiting options and some really rather good evening wear, but casual ensembles appropriate to the era are largely up to the individual to piece together as well as he can. This has its positive aspects, if one enjoys the challenge and exercise of creative juices, but it can also be frustrating. Things don’t always work together so well in world. Pieces get all wobbly when one tries to pile them on top of other pieces. 

tweedy2

We built this look today around the desire to make some kind of use of a free hunt item coat, because, by gad, when we acquire a likely item for free, we want to make decent use of it. We’ve found, however, that we can easily lay out more green cabbage trying to make a free item work than we would purchasing a ready-to-wear ensemble. As our dear old mater used to say, there is no such thing as a free puppy.

Suggested

Shirt ~ Hoorenbeek, Real Shirt with colour change HUD

Tie ~ Hoorenbeek, mesh printed HUD

Knit vest ~ Kauna XIV in plain rust

Trousers ~ Bastard, herringbone tweed casual baggy

Coat ~ Tamiron Forge, Trench Coat in brown, past Men Only Hunt item

Hat ~ Quedra HD Design, free brown mesh fedora, tinted as desired

Shoes ~ Gabriel, wingtip in brown, past group gift

Hair ~ Action James (includes color change HUD and a plethora of color options)

Dress for L$1526, inclusive of hair. It should be noted that one gets a LOT of shirting and tie options for the price with the Hoorenbeek shirts.

Resources Consulted

Fashion Encyclopedia – Modern World 1919-1929